Deep Diving Into The Cambodian History Via Chef Nak’s Culinary Theatrics

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In the evolving culinary landscape of Southeast Asia, few names shine as brightly as Chef Ros Rotanak, widely known as Chef Nak - Cambodia's first female celebrity chef and a passionate advocate for preserving traditional 'Khmer' cuisine. With an approach that blends ancestral recipes, storytelling, and cultural heritage, Chef Nak has become a vital force in bringing Cambodian food to the global stage. In her debut Pop Up at Zen at The Leela Palace Bengaluru, Chef Nak brought her culinary history along with authentic flavours and aesthetics that define her cooking.

In this exclusive conversation, she opens up about her culinary journey, the stories behind her flavours, and her mission to keep Cambodia's rich gastronomic legacy alive for future generations.

Early Life - Deeply Personal Connection With Food

"Cooking didn't happen because I dreamed of becoming a chef. It happened out of love, responsibility, and survival", says Chef Nak. She started cooking at a tender age of 4 or 5 years. Her parents' unfortunate traffic accident lead to her older sister and her taking up the role of care givers while they were recovering. With working parents she had to learn cooking at a very young age. The kitchen became her sanctuary and she often drew comfort from food.

Becoming a chef happened much later, almost by chance. In her decade long stint at the performing arts and cultural sector at Cambodian Living Arts she carried a deep love for cooking and 'Khmer' cuisine. As the years flew past, she realised how much of her Cambodian culinary heritage was being lost, with many recipes and stories disappearing as older generations passed on. At one point she decided to dedicate herself fully to preserving, developing, and promoting Cambodian cuisine. It wasn't the most conventional path, but it was deeply personal and full of purpose.

In her words, "Looking back, I wouldn't change a thing. Cooking gave me not just a career, it gave me a mission and a sense of hope for the future of our rich cultural heritage".

Changing Culinary Landscape During And After The 'Khmer Rouge Period'

'Khmer Rouge' was a radical communist movement that ruled Cambodia from 1975 to 1979. It was purportedly set up in 1967 as the armed wing of the Communist Party of Kampuchea. The Khmer Rouge government was responsible for the Cambodian genocide (1976-78), during which up to three million people were murdered. Chef Nak calls it 'the darkest time in Cambodian history'. She went emotional while reflecting; "It didn't just take lives, but it tried to reset our culture, our identity, and even the joy of sharing food. People could no longer cook freely or gather as families. Meals were reduced to watery porridge, often with barely any rice. Eating became purely about survival, anything that could temporarily fill the stomach, not about connection or nourishment"

Many traditional recipes were lost during that time-they were passed down orally, not written, and disappeared with the elders who once carried them. Even after the regime ended, civil unrest and scarcity forced families to improvise and rely on memory.
The women in Chef's family rarely spoke of those painful years, but their cooking which is careful, resourceful, and filled with gratitude for every ingredient, reflects the impact of those dark days.

She is toiling to reclaim a part of that lost history and honouring those who protected the traditions, even in silence. She's passing the legacy forward to the future generations with pride, love, and hope.

The Story Of Building A Homestay

Once she decided to pursue this journey of bringing back lost recipes and traditions, the idea of a private homestay with a home dining experience, and cooking classes came very naturally to her and Sarin, her immensely supportive spouse. Together, they restored a century-old, traditional home in Phnom Penh, on the banks of river Mekong.

"It felt like the perfect place to welcome guests, not as customers in a hotel or restaurant, but as visitors stepping into a living, breathing Khmer home" says Chef.
Chef Nak wanted people to slow down and truly experience Cambodian life-through cooking, eating, and gardening alongside locals. Her classes go beyond just recipes; they share techniques, traditions, and the rich stories behind each dish. In a fast-paced world, she aimed to offer something intimate and authentic-a way to preserve Cambodia's culinary heritage while giving travellers a deeper, more meaningful connection to the culture.

The Accolades And Appreciation

Chef Nak feels deeply humbled by the recognition as 'Culinary ambassador of Cambodian cuisine'. Who would've imagined that the little girl who cooked in the kitchen out of love and responsibility, would one day record and create history for her community. She says, "I don't take that title lightly, because I know I'm standing on the shoulders of so many-especially the women in rural communities who have carried our food traditions quietly, with grace and strength, for generations.

To be honest, there have been moments when I've felt tired and overwhelmed. I've cried. I've asked myself, 'Why does it have to be this hard? Do I really have to do this much?' But then I remember why I started-and how far we've come. That purpose is what keeps me going."

Plans For Future

Apart from expanding her work in Siem Reap, where her new 'Culinary Art Center' is becoming a vibrant cultural destination, Chef Nak wants to take Cambodian cuisine global, primarily through pop-up events, cultural exchanges, and collaborations with international chefs. The focus will also be towards empowering the next generation, especially young cooks, students, and rural food artisans, because the future of Cambodian cuisine depends on them.

Chef Nak has authored two books, 'NHUM - Recipes from a Cambodian Kitchen' and 'SAOY - Royal Cambodian Home Cuisine', crowned "The Best Cookbook in the World" by the renowned Gourmand Award. She's working on a new cookbook that will explore even more overlooked recipes and regional flavours, along with the personal stories behind them. Nak Says, "Every book is another step in documenting and celebrating our culinary wisdom."

Indian Food And The Pop Up At The Leela Palace Bengaluru

Chef Nak loves Indian food and has found various similarities between Indian and Cambodian cooking, especially in the way both cuisines layer flavors with spices and herbs and how food is so deeply tied to culture, tradition, and healing. One of the strongest familiarity is in the use of ingredients like turmeric, cardamom, and coriander, which are also part of the Cambodian spice palette. Both cuisines also share a deep respect for balance and ritual in the way food is prepared and shared. She loves 'biryani' for the nostalgia it brings of how the Cambodians infuse rice with flavor in their cooking, but with its own unique and powerful character. Freshly prepared 'roti and naan' (Indian breads) also feel comforting and satisfying she says.

At her pop-up, Chef Nak took the patrons on a cultural culinary journey through Cambodia. The fives courses comprised of some of her most treasured dishes, including ancient royal recipes and soulful home-style flavors, all prepared with traditional techniques and seasonal ingredients. Each dish has a story, whether it was Namya Bangkorng-rice noodles with greyfish curry-or the elegant White Pearl Soup, a royal favorite with a broth simmered for hours, every bite offered a window into Cambodia's rich culinary heritage. But just as important as the food was the experience. The 'washing of hands' ritual before sitting to eat, offered a window to the ancient Hindu way of life in Cambodian homes.

Chef Nak was the 'Belle of the Ball' at this culinary event. Cooking, sharing stories, connecting with guests, and helping them discover the meaning, balance, and soul behind her work. It was a rare opportunity to taste the depth of Cambodian cuisine in an intimate and beautifully curated setting such as Zen with such a passionate Chef who won hearts with her warmth and the stories of grit and resilience.

Food gourmands from Bengaluru walked in with curiosity and an appetite for Cambodian flavors , but left with a profound learning for Cambodian history and culture ignited by food and personal connections, not to forget, the vivaciousness that Chef Ros Rotanak brought to the table.

We at Boldsky hope that she is able to accomplish her goal of bringing Cambodian food in the global spotlight and preserving the culinary legacy of her native community. We wish her all the best for her future endeavours.