Inspiration Without Credit: What Gucci’s Kaftan Controversy Tells Us About Fashion Today

on December 13, 2025

A recent release by Italian luxury house Gucci has reignited global conversations around cultural appropriation in fashion. Sharp criticism online called out the brand's 'floral embroidered organic linen kaftan' for drawing too close a resemblance to the traditional Indian kurta, for which it is selling at a luxury premium, and called for better respect, credit and transparency from fashion houses.

Critics noted that the garment's silhouette and intricate embroidery are characteristic of Indian ethnic wear, yet Gucci's publicity failed to recognise or acknowledge this. Fashion commentators and social media users argued that rebranding the design as a 'kaftan' without any cultural context stripped it of the heritage it clearly emulated.

What Sparked the Outrage?

Photo Credit: Boldsky

Gucci's listing triggered an outcry, especially among South Asian netizens, as many pointed out kurtas, or long tunics traditionally worn in India, Pakistan, and Bangladesh, find deep roots in regional dress culture. The lack of credit and context reignited debates over how luxury brands borrow from cultures without due recognition.

A Pattern, Not an Isolated Incident

Prada and Kolhapuri Chappals

Photo Credit: Google

This isn't the first time a major fashion house has faced accusations of cultural appropriation. In mid-2025, Prada was criticised after showcasing leather sandals at Milan Fashion Week that bore resemblance to traditional Kolhapuri chappals, handcrafted in Kolhapur, Maharashtra, without giving credit to their origin and artisan communities.

The sandals sparked outrage, as authentic Kolhapuri chappals, which have a Geographical Indication tag, recognising their cultural and regional heritage, are usually affordable and handmade by local craftsmen of generations. The Prada versions were priced at a luxury retail level, leading observers to call it cultural exploitation.

Under public pressure, Prada later acknowledged the inspiration and announced a collaboration with Indian leather artisan bodies to produce a limited-edition "Made in India" range, sold globally and intended to support local craft and income.

Other Brands and Broader Concerns

This debate isn't limited to Indian fashion. Global brands like Reformation have been criticised for appropriating South Asian designs, particularly when such design elements appear without credit or connection to the communities they come from.

Beyond South Asia, discussions around cultural appropriation also involve Western brands using Indigenous Mexican patterns without compensation, prompting government action and calls for fair recognition. There are even cases like Ralph Lauren apologising for alleged appropriation of Indigenous designs, illustrating that this is a global issue in fashion.

Why This Matters in Fashion Today

The debate is not, at its core, about either a label or a price sticker that alone has value; it's about how cultural creativity and heritage are treated in an industry that sustains itself partly through novelty and luxury:

Respecting Origins

Designs honed over generations are due credit, not just aesthetic borrowings. When luxury brands borrow motifs, silhouettes, or construction techniques out of context, it can be a form of erasure.

Fair Compensation

Traditional designs often come from artisans whose craft sustains local communities. When this sort of design is used to create products by a global label that offers no credit, compensation, or partnership to the originating culture, it raises questions of intellectual and cultural property.

Ethical Collaboration as a New Model

Prada's very recent step toward collaborating with Indian artisans involves signing partnerships and producing co-branded footwear, signalling a move toward more respectful engagement rather than mere replication. Other fashion houses have taken note, and some are prioritising artisan partnerships and narrative transparency in their collections.

Consumer Awareness and Power

Today's fashion consumers, especially Gen Z and younger shoppers, are more attuned to issues of cultural respect, sustainability and authenticity. These audiences increasingly favour brands that acknowledge source cultures and work inclusively.

What's Next?

With fashion going global, conversations around cultural influence, credit, and appropriation are only getting louder. Whether through legal frameworks like geographical indications, direct collaborations with artisans, or ethical policy shifts driven by public pressure, the industry is being nudged toward greater respect and accountability.

The controversy around Gucci's kaftan points to a larger fashion debate beyond social media outrage or a luxury price tag: creativity can draw from many traditions, but inspiration must come with credit, respect, and responsibility.